Today I walked over to the Jewish Ghetto, which is just on the other side of the Tiber River from where we are staying in Trastevere. Indeed, there was a point in history when the Jewish Community of Rome lived in Trastevere, before the 16th century when they were forced into the Ghetto for several hundred years. There is an excellent museum tracing the history of the Jewish community in Rome, which is right next door to the main synagogue that was built in 1904. The synagogue is spectacular, quite ornate for a synagogue, reflecting the culture of the country in which it exists! It’s not quite as over the top as so many of the churches in Rome are, but compared to synagogues in other parts of Europe, this one is pretty fancy! The Italian Jewish community is unique in that they are neither Sephardic nor Ashkenazi Jews, but rather they are direct descendants of the early Jews of Palestine who fled here after the destruction of the second temple in 79 CE. I had never realized that the Italian Jewish Community had that distinction, but it makes sense historically, since it was the Roman Empire that destroyed the temple in Jerusalem so it stands to reason that the Jews there who fled would have wound up in another part of the Empire. The dome at the top of the synagogue is square, because they wanted it to be different from the church domes of Rome. The rainbow colors of the dome represent the covenant between God and humanity after the flood, when Noah saw the rainbow in the sky and God promised not to destroy humanity by flood again. When I saw that rainbow colored dome, it reminded me of the stained glass in our Interfaith Chapel at U of R! The museum has beautiful artifacts of Jewish life and worship, particularly lovely textiles that were used to make the Torah scroll covers and the curtains that go on the ark in the synagogue.
After visiting the synagogue and museum, I walked through the old Ghetto area. It is much changed from the era when the Jews were forced to live there, and much more trendy and desirable now that it was then! Indeed, many contemporary Jews in Rome live elsewhere because the old “ghetto” neighborhood is too trendy and expensive!
I then crossed back over the river and did a walk through Trastevere. I started out in a section that is much quieter than the area we are staying in. I visited the Basilica of St. Cecilia, who is the patron saint of musicians and singers. She’s a favorite of mine for that reason. One thing about Rome that is completely consistent, there are absolutely gorgeous churches everywhere you turn! They are simply spectacular with mosaics and frescoes and paintings and statues and ornate gold leaf and multiple chapels that go on and on. The basilica of St. Cecilia is built over the site where her house was located. Indeed, ruins from the house are visible in the crypt area of the basilica. The little chapel down in the crypt which is built around the saint’s remains is truly a gorgeous work of art.
I also found, on a tiny little side street that looks like an alley, a bakery that makes Italian cookies that are absolutely to die for! I would never have found it without the guidebook that pointed me in that direction. I have never seen so many delicious cookies in one place in my life. I bought a small bag with a sampling of cookies just to snack on and intend to return there with Tracy so that we can buy a more extensive variety. They made a really nice afternoon treat!
After St. Cecilia’s basilica I walked back to our area of Trastevere and went to the big church in the square, Santa Maria. Another amazingly gorgeous church with spectacular mosaics adorning the nave and above the altar. Rome is a church rat’s heaven!
Pics today include some shots from the synagogue, including the rainbow colored dome and shots from St. Cecilia and Santa Maria, just to give an taste of the beauty of these places!
No comments:
Post a Comment