Thursday, July 7, 2016

Heart of Rome Walk


Today I walked all over central Rome in 90+ degree heat.  Four hours of that and I was done in!  It’s not only the heat, but the crowds are unbelievable and make the heat feel worse!

I started out heading for the Ponte Cristo to go over to the Campo Di Fiori square where there is a market every morning.  On my way out of Trastevere I saw the signs for Villa Farnesina, which I had wanted to visit yesterday but was too late so I detoured over to the villa first.  It’s a lovely Renaissance villa covered in Raphael paintings on walls and ceilings.  It’s tucked on a quiet street here in Trastevere, not far from the dorms where Tracy’s students are living!  The villa was built in the early 1500s for the then richest man in Europe, one Agostino Chigi.  It’s a huge U-shaped building with large salons that are decorated with gorgeous paintings by Raphael, Peruzzi and others.  Some of the scenes are from mythology, some the zodiac, and all of them are sumptuous and beautiful, covering walls and ceilings.  After I toured the villa, I headed across the Tiber on the Ponte Cristo and made my way up to the Campo Di Fiori square which was teeming with activity as the market was underway.

The market is full of stalls selling fruits, vegetables, pasta, spices, kitchen gadgets, clothing, souvenirs…everything you can imagine.  I bought some fruit and nuts to snack on as my lunch and refilled my water bottle at the fountain there and then headed on towards the Piazza Navona.  This is a huge plaza with a famous fountain with statues by Bellini of the four rivers of the world, and it is lined with cafes and restaurants and gelateria and the like.  There I learned that the Tre Scalini gelateria is famous for it’s chocolate ice cream so I decided to try it and I can see why it has the reputation it has!  Delicious!  That was the third course of my eclectic lunch and felt pretty good in the midst of the summer heat.  After leaving the Piazza Navona I headed on towards the Pantheon, which I had visited earlier this week, so I then made my way onwards to the Trevi fountain.  On the way I walked down a lot of little narrow streets lined with shops and cafes.  I stopped into some of them to look around and get a few moments of air conditioning just to keep from expiring!  I ultimately got my ritual tea mug and magnet souvenirs from Rome and also stopped in a lovely shop that makes wooden toys, puppets and plaques for children and got a souvenir for Mackenzie.   I then finally got to the Trevi fountain which was an absolute mob scene, with thousands of tourists trying to see it through the wire mesh fencing that is all around it as it is being repaired.  Makes it hard to really enjoy it because you have to fight your way through a mob to even get close enough to the fence to get a photo.  There is certainly no chance to enjoy the beauty of it.  Then I walked on to the Spanish steps, which, it turns out, are also undergoing renovation and so are also walled off with wire fencing.  You can see them from across the street but you can’t go on them.

At that point it was getting late and I was extremely hot so I decided to walk back to Trastevere via the Via Corso, which seems like Rome’s version of Fifth Avenue or Oxford Street!  Lots of high end stores and galleries.  At the end of the Via Corso is the very impressive Piazza Venezia.  I returned to Trastevere across the Ponte Garibaldi and was very happy to get into the apartment and the air conditioning! 

This evening we are going to attend a talk/lecture at John Cabot University about Brexit.  There will be some European professors on a panel talking about the ramifications and import of Brexit and the EU going forward.  I’m looking forward to hearing a European perspective on it!  So far, the folks we’ve talked to here can’t believe Britain voted out and think it was not a good move on their part!

Pics today show some of the Raphael paintings in the Villa, the fountain at Piazza Navone and the cafe with the best chocolate gelato ever, the Trevi fountain and the Piazza Venezia.







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