Monday, July 11, 2016

Capitoline Hill Museum




Today started out to be my day to tour the Roman Forum, but wound up being a day spent in the Capitoline Museums atop Capitoline Hill!  I walked from Trastevere over to the area where the Forum is located, using a map.  As I am learning about Rome, the mere fact that you get somewhere near the actual location of a place doesn’t mean you can actually get to it!  I had to wander quite a bit trying to figure out where the entrances to the Forum actually are, having come upon it from the back.  I wandered up and down narrow, cobbled streets in the blazing sun, following groups of tourists with guides, figuring I’d get closer that way!  When I got to the top of Capitoline Hill I saw that the museum was open, contrary to what the literature says about it being closed on Monday.  Given that the temperature today was in the high 90s and the sun was unrelenting, I looked out over the Forum with its complete lack of any shade whatsoever and decided to go for the museum which would be infinitely cooler and, in places, even air conditioned! 

The Capitoline museum complex includes two huge buildings.  It was founded in 1471 when Pope Sixtus IV donated some large bronze statues from Ancient Rome to the city. Since then it has become the place that houses statues, carvings, inscriptions, artifacts, paintings and mosaics and tapestries, and collections of jewels, coins and other artifacts from various periods in Rome’s history.  It’s quite a complex with an incredible variety of things to see, from ancient Roman and Hellenistic statues to medieval and renaissance art.  The buildings face each other across a square and there is an underground tunnel that you go through to get from one to the other, lined with hieroglyphs spanning many centuries.  It’s an incredibly well done set of exhibits.  In the second building, the Palazza Nuovo, there is a section where you can look out over the Forum and get some wonderful views of the whole complex.  As I looked out on the sun drenched and unshaded walks of the Forum I decided I’d made the right decision! 

I am glad to have seen the giant statue (or rather portion of a statue) of the Emperor Constantine, pictures of which I’ve seen for years. It’s an absolutely enormous statue, of which only the head and one hand and one foot remain, but given their size it’s clear that when the statue was intact it was absolutely enormous and must have been rather daunting to Constantine’s subjects! 

When I left the museum, after about 3 hours of poring over the exhibits, I walked around the Piazza Venetia to where I could see the Forum and Colosseum.  By then, Tracy had texted that she would be done earlier than expected, so I walked back to Trastevere, stopping for a lemon Granita (their version of a slushy!) which was most welcome in the extreme heat of the afternoon.  When I got back to the apartment, Tracy and I went back to the little shop with the fresh baked Italian cookies that I found last week and she wanted to see the Basilica of St. Cecilia, so I took her there.  We then walked through Trastevere and got really good pizza, fresh salad fixings and cold beer for our supper.  She had to do some prep work tonight and I am just taking it easy recovering from the exhaustion of walking around in the Rome summer heat.  I’m not walking all that far, but in this heat, it doesn’t take much to wear you out!

Pics today include some shots from the museum and some shots out over the Forum.  Given the extremely hot weather we’re having here, I may not actually tour the Forum this visit!  I’ll save it for a visit during a more temperate time of year!







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